This post sees us chase the clock and drive from the cities of Debar to Gostivar in North Macedonia along a canyon in the Mavrovo National Park.
Why did we chase the clock? Simples. The young guy we met at the St George Monastery yesterday told us that the road from Debar to Gostivar would close from 10am to 4pm for road works. That meant a 6am rise and quick departure. What a blessing. If we had not met him we would have been stuck in the canyon for a whole day !
Another blessing. The Bigorski Monastery of St John The Baptist. You have not seen Macedonia if you have not seen this Monastery. It is the most beautiful I have seen in the most beautiful location – and I have seen A LOT of Monasteries !!! Bigorski is the heart of Macedonian Orthodoxy which is an Autocephalous Church and was founded here in 1020AD when a humble hermit by the same name discovered a very old wooden icon of St John The Baptist floating on the river passing just below here. The icon helped many people and he was compelled to found a monastery here and not only did he become its first Abbott but the first Archbishop of Macedonia. This icon continues to work miracles, especially couples who cannot have children. The monk who took us inside to venerate this precious piece told us that hundreds of children have been born to parents who could not conceive. We also venerated the middle finger bone of St John The Baptist and another small piece of the actual cross of Christ. This place is magical and the mountains surrounding it cradle it like a small child.
At the end of the canyon lies the Mavrovo Lake at 1272m making it perfect for a run at 10am. We made it. Passed the huge road trucks about to close the road with 20min to spare!!! I left Paris and Leo at a collection of cafes and headed running along the lake towards the village of Mavrovo which comprised many Swiss-style homes equipped with triangular roofs to keep that winter snow at bay. This place shimmered in the sun and was the ideal place to fish for trout and hear myriads of birds singing.
Gostivar on the other hand was a stark contrast. Very industrial and a hosh-posh of incongruous buildings and crowded streets. No photos here. Headed to our first and only hostel which we had to ourselves. Looked like a New York artist loft apartment with a kitchen and lounge downstairs and bedrooms upstairs in the roof cavity.
Enjoy the blessed road from Debar to Gostivar…