This post sees us drive from Nesebar to Varna on the Black Sea Coast in Bulgaria via Iraklio Beach, Obzor, Chayka Beach, Byalar, Cape Galata, Galata Bay, Galata Observation Deck.
The pity about the Black Sea Coast in Bulgaria is that there is no coastal road to hug the green seaside to make the most it like the Dalmatian Coast road in Croatia. Instead the main road sweeps inland, albeit through lush green rolling farmland and hilly forest. Our Bulgarian weather since reaching the coast continued to be windy with scattered cloud and temperatures sizzling at 34-36C. Any beach facing east was very choppy with surf-like waves hitting the lighter sand. We finally found Iraklio Beach, which faced south but it was too shallow. The best fit was the very secluded Galata Bay but opposite the giant city of Varna where we were to stay for the next two nights. We went swimming at Galata Bay which we had to hike to and where the only ones there – Paris loves this. The water was a pleasant 24C and put us in a great state to enter the city of Varna.
Varna (Pop 335,000, Elev 80m to Sea Level, Founded 6th Century BC) is the third-largest city in Bulgaria and the largest city and seaside resort on the Bulgarian Black Sea Coast. Situated strategically in the Gulf of Varna, the city has been a major economic, social and cultural centre for almost three millennia. Varna is an important centre for business, transportation, education, tourism, entertainment and healthcare. The city is referred to as the maritime capital of Bulgaria and has the headquarters of the Bulgarian Navy and merchant marine. The oldest gold jewellery in the world, belonging to the Varna culture, was discovered in the Varna Necropolis and dated to 4600–4200 BC. Since the discovery of the Varna Necropolis in 1974, 294 burial sites have been found, with over 3000 golden items inside. We spent 4hrs walking the streets of the centre of the city including the main beach and pedestrian mall. Varna is too big, sprawling and has too many remnants of the communist era. Cafés and restaurants are limited in number and not the most inviting. We felt that Sofia and Plovdiv were miles ahead. The Cathedral of St Constantine and St Helen was the highlight with its shimmering gold domes that we could see from across the peninsula almost 15km away the previous day. The Roman Baths are also very well preserved.
The biggest let-down of our visit to Varna was not being able to visit the Euxinograd Palace which is like something out of France. When we arrived at the gates, we were told that we needed to ring in advance and turn up with references and organise a guide – many others were turned away for the same reasons – do these guys want tourists or not !!!
We quickly forgot our palace blues when we finally found the Monastery of Constantine and St Helen, a little further on near the Black Sea and in a sprawling hotel and resort complex with supermarket – what was a Monastery doing in a place like this we aksed ourselves – the only answer we could muster was that the church owned all the land here and was surviving via rents. The Monastery itself was very small but colourful and surprisingly quiet for where it was located. I spent a while in the church praying for my dad who left this planet exactly 8 years ago to this very day.
Our last port of call was a beach called Cargo, some 35km north of the city – why did we go that far ? Because the winds persisted today from the east and it was the only beach facing south and protected by concrete break-waters enabling Paris and Leo to waddle around in calm waters and me able to swim 1.6km whilst avoiding the swells outside. As I swam, a local on the breakwater shouted to me to get out to avoid the “Medusa Jellyfish” – a creature that I had not heard of and assumed was harmless otherwise the beach would be closed. When I got back to our apartment and looked it up I read that it could issue a very painful sting !!! Lucky for me I did not run into it but I did see a large shape pass me !!!
Enjoy our last days in Bulgaria through the eyes of Varna !!!
WHERE PARIS AND LEO WODDLED !!!
WHERE JOHN SWAM 1.6KM WITH A MEDUSA JELLYFISH
STOP PRESS:
Some more observations of Bulgaria include:
Pasting an obituary and photo of recently deceased loved ones on the doors of apartments or houses where they lived requesting prayers and giving details of funeral and subsequent memorials (like in a newspaper ad).
Outdoor coffee vending machines on many corners.
Learner cars have a big “y” on sticking out on top of the cars.
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