In this post I drive from Paphos to Polis Crysochous via: Agios Neophytos Monastery (Relics), Coral Bay, Edro III Shipwreck, Sea Caves, Archaeological Site of Agios Georgios at Pegeia, Lara Bay, White River Beach and trekked The Avakas Gorge. I then visit Polis Crysochous and swim at Latsi Beach. The highlight is my 11km day trek to the Blue Lagoon via Yiannakis Beach, Aphrodite's Bath, Crescent Bay, Amphitheatre Bay.
Paphos has tons of coffee shops and the coffee is like Australia – it is good. Smooth, aromatic, flavoursome, not hot. This is easy to understand since the competition is hot. I was able to find a good takeaway cup just before arriving at the Monastery of Agios Neophytos just outside Paphos but it tool me ages to get there because of road works and detours that took me around the Paphos Planet instead of a straight line to the Monastery.
Saint Neophytos Monastery lies 15 km west of Paphos and is one of the best-known monasteries in Cyprus. It was founded by the Monk Neophytos in the 12th century. Neophytos was born in the mountain village of Kato Drys Cyprus, to farming parents Athanasios and Eudoxia, one of eight children. Neophytos escaped an arranged marriage and went back to the monastery as a novice, becoming a tonsured monk in 1152. In 1158, Neophytos was made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. In 1159, he went to the hilly area above Paphos, where he found a cave that had been used by a previous hermit. Neophytos's life as a hermit attracted the religious in the area who brought him food and gifts. His air of sanctity brought many to visit him, and in 1170 Vasilios (Basil) Kinnamos, the Bishop of Paphos, ordained him as a priest and required him to take a disciple, which started the monastery which now bears his name. When I arrived there was no one there. I parked and walked to the Church, which bore the body of the Saint.
My next stop was far from the Hermit life – Coral Bay. The rich and famous of Cyprus, Greece and even Russia live here. There are mansions everywhere overlooking this huge banana shaped blue bay. Reminded me of places along Sydney Harbour !!!
The next stop was unexpected. The shipwreck of the Edro III, registered in Freetown of Sierra Leone of all places. What a coincident. The EDRO III was a cargo ship, built in 1966 in Norway. It ran aground off Pegeia on 8 October 2011 in heavy seas, during a voyage to Rhodes, from Limassol in Cyprus with a cargo of plasterboard. At the time of the accident, the ship had nine crew members – seven Albanians and two Egyptians. The crew were rescued and airlifted to the safety of Paphos by a local British Military helicopter. The EDRO III is more than 80 metres (260 ft) in length, weighing about 2,300–2500 tons. The ship lies on the sea rocks at an angle of 11–12 degrees near the sea cave area.
The Sea Caves of Pegeia are many and cover a long line of coast. The water here is crystal clear and many mansions overlook this area.
Archaeological Site of Agios Georgios at Pegeia contains three Early Christian basilicas and a bath, all dated to the 6th century. The settlement flourished under Justinian I (527-565 AD). Situated at the western-most extremity of the island and at the mid-point of the sea route between Alexandria and Rhodes, the settlement was probably a port of call for the ships that transported grain from Egypt to Constantinople. There is a small local Church of St George just outside the ancient site and a small island off the coast called Ieroniso or Holy Island.
Just further down the coast the road rises and reveals a magnificent view over Lara Bay and the White River Beach. This is a spectacular coastline and better than the southern coastline from Limassol to Paphos.
I then descended down into Pegeia valley and arrived at the start of the Avakas Gorge. I was so looking forward to this. My first trek in Cyprus and probably my last on Balkanopoulos. Just as well since my trekking shoes are on their last legs – not mine – theirs !!! The Gorge is terrific. Starts wide and then narrows to a few metres before expanding again. It is 3.3km in length which you hike one way and then back the same way. I ran it and did the return trip of 6.6km total in 87min from a published 150min. I encountered a few people along the way. There is a great viewpoint at the other end of the gorge.
From here it was just 31km to Polis Crysochous where I would spend 3 nights so I can swim all the best beaches in Cyprus along the Akamas Peninsula. I was buggered on arrival and much to my dislike the blue-grey clouds released their water and I was back wondering what tomorrow would bring.
Enjoy the spectacular west coast drive from Paphos to Polis Crysochous.
The following morning validated my overnight tossing and turning – it was raining. I decided to wait it out with some coffee and local FLAOUNES – a typical Cypriot pastry that is half biscuit, half tiropita. Lovely. Finally the sun came out and I decided to go for a swim at the local Latsi Beach since it had breakwater walls spaced apart for just over a kilometre – perfect since the wind was up with some chop in the water. Completed 2.1km putting me in a good position for the same swim at the Blue Lagoon tomorrow – apparently the BEST BEACH in Cyprus. You need to trek 5.4km each way from the Baths of Aphrodite to get there so I decided to rest the rest of today. No more photos or footage – strange for me.
The next morning was much better. Lots of cloud but the sun made regular appearances. Armed with a Latte and several KOUPES I headed to Latsi Beach to take some photos. KOUPES are another Cypriot delight – they look like falafels with the same crispy golden brown skin but they are stuffed with a variety of things, typically mince but also mushrooms and cheese. Lovely. My first stop was Latsi Beach were I swam yesterday since I wanted to take some footage given the extra sun. Next came Yiannakis Beach. These beaches are nice and I wish there was more sun to show you the blue-green colour of the water. The bitumen stops at the Baths of Aphrodite so it was time to park the car and trek the rest of the way. Lucky for that. The dirt road from the Baths of Aphrodite to the Blue Lagoon is terrible and only possible with serious four-wheel drives of which there were several taking tourists there. The Baths of Aphrodite are disappointing. It is one cave covered in greenery with a pool in it that you cannot even swim in – it is small. A clear tourist trap. At least I was alone given the off season. The trek to the Blue Lagoon is far from disappointing. It belongs to one of the world’s great walks – cliffside, steep and with commanding views of the Mediterranean and Akamas Peninsula Coast – a real treat. Many people walk, run and cycle this track. Many use those 4-wheel buggies and the rest ride in four wheel drives. The really lazy take a big boat out to the Blue Lagoon that leaves from Latsi Marina. The Blue Lagoon is indeed blue and lovely but it is crowded with boats and drunk tourists. Even in October I felt overrun. Cannot imagine what it is like in June, July, August !!! There are no beaches, just low rocky cliffs and a big rocky outcrop in the middle. I found an isolated rocky point that descended into the water and cast off from here to complete my 2.1km swim of the bay. Plenty to look at underneath, small fish, rocks, some weeds and plenty of white sand that gives this place its characteristic blue colour. I blitzed this swim in 40min averaging 3km/h. Loved it. The walk back was better since the sun was out but the clouds still played an interfering role. By the time I got back to the car I was zonked but the drive back is only 12km and it was not long until I was soaking in a nice hot shower !!!
Despite its popularity, the Blue Lagoon was easily the highlight of the Cyprus trip so far and the walk really pushed it up there.
Enjoy the sights of the Akamas Peninsula Coast and Blue Lagoon…
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