In this post we drive to Duhok via: the Shanidar Cave, Amadiya, Mt Gara (Saddam Hussein Palace).
Today was the best scenery so far out of Lebanon and Syria and possibly even the Balkans !!! We drove through canyons, gorges, valleys and saw rivers and jagged mountains, which looked like they may be in Italy or Greece or Romania. We spent most of our time between 600m and 2000m so the day was quite comfortable and we had our windows open instead of aircon. There is no doubt after today that the Kurdistan region of Iraq is easily the most scenic and pleasant given we have driven more than 2,500km over most of the country.
The Shanidar Cave is an archaeological site located on Bradost Mountain, within the Zagros Mountains. It is known for the discovery of Neanderthal remains at the site. Anthropologist Ralph Solecki, from the University of Michigan, excavated here between 1953 and 1960 and discovered 4 Neanderthal and 2 Neolithic skeletons just inside the entrance of the cave carbon dated between 65,000 and 35,000 years old. The cave entrance is 740m above sea level and 122km north of Erbil close to the Turkish border. We also saw IBEX GOATS here, which are wild goats with very long bent horns on the male.
Amadiya or Amedi (Pop 11,000, Elev 1,200m, Founded 3000BC) is an incredible sight and site !!! It is perched on top of a flat spur surrounded by a huge valley with two huge jagged mountain chain ridges on either side. Amedi was the seat of the semi-autonomous Badinan Emirate, which lasted from 1376 to 1843. It also belonged to the Assyrians, Sassanids, Parthians, and other civilizations. There are ruins of the Qubahan School in Amedi which was founded during the region of Sultan Hussein Wali of Bahdinan (1534-1576) AD for the study of Islamic Sciences. There are also ruins of a synagogue and a tomb attributed to Ezekiel a church in the small town. One of the icons of the city is the Great Mosque of Amadiya which dates back to the 12th century and the oldest and largest in the region. We were lucky to see these sites as well as the 4th Century Mozul Gate which is being restored.
Saddam Hussein’s Palace on top of Mount Gara is possibly one of the greatest over-indulgences and crimes (to his people) of all time. It cost millions to build in the 1980’s and looks like an ordinary large 3 level house but that is not the crime. A very steep 12km road ascending to 2007m had to be built to get to this house. The real insult came when he only stayed at this house no more than five times !!! Despite all of this the views from here are to die for. Definitely, for me, the highlight of today, my Middle East trip so far and possibly even the Balkans. You feel like your are on top of the world. The cloudless sky and setting sun also brought a magic to this view I have seen only a few times in my worldwide travels.
Our overnight destination of Duhok (Pop 340,900, Elev 565m) was only an hour away. The city is pre-historic and ancient having been settled during: the Stone Age, Assyrian Empire, Babylonian Empire, Achaemenid Empire, Alexander the Great and Romans. I liked this city because there was a whole street dedicated to booze just a stones throw from our hotel. After a nice cool shower and some Rose we went out to a local restaurant for dinner feasting on kebabs and salad. Sunset in this city was very scenic given the hills on both sides of the city.
Enjoy the most scenic day of the Iraqi trip so far…
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